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Friday, October 29, 2010

Edged Weapons from the Civil War

The American Civil War was not fought by highly trained, professional armies, but by a whole population forced to fight for the family values and ideals they believed in.

This made it a unique war in many ways, not least in the types of weapons that were used. The large majority of weapons carried through the conflict were old-fashioned and rudimentary as the tide of the battle seemed to rely more on fighting spirit than superior modern technology.

Typical tools were bayonets, sabers, swords, short swords, cutlasses, Bowie knives, pikes and lances which were all produced in profusion during this period. They are a delight to modern collectors and were often spectacular decorations for their users but actually inflicted few casualties. Of approximately 250, 000 wounded victims treated during the war, only 922 were victims of edged weapons.

One reason for this was the troop's lack of training. Although a bayonet is dangerous in the hands of a trained trooper, the volunteer horsemen had difficulty handling them and so avoided using them.

Furthermore, until recently swords were the symbol of an American officer's authority and served this primary function in the Civil War. Officer's kept their short but useless artillery swords as decorative items rather than using them as they were supposed - to disembowel the horse and kill any rider who stood in their way!

Lances were also serious weapons in the hands of trained troopers but fairly ineffectual for the volunteers. The weapons shortage in the South meant troops were armed with lances and pikes but they were often abandoned if a more practical weapon could be found.

As edged weapons were more decorative than useful they make fabulous collectibles for the Collectors of Civil War weaponry as most of them are in very good condition. Classic Civil War Confederate 'D' Guard Bowie style fighting knives are typical finds. These knives will often show crude Southern workmanship with a long iron blade which may have been fashioned from an old file - the edge of the blades sharp with a spear point scratches in the surface. They will sell for an average of $2000. It is rare to find a Confederate made fighting knife still with its original scabbard and this will increase its value to $3000 or more.


To find products of interest to the reenactor and collector of U.S. Civil War replicas and Civil War gifts click the link below.

Civil War Collectibles




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Friday, October 22, 2010

Grading the Condition Of a Pocket Knife

In 1973, the National Knife Collectors Association developed a knife grading system that became the standard for many years. Over time, most dealers and collectors have enhanced the standard to provide more clarification and a more detailed grading system. Most knives are now graded as described in the table below.

Pristine Mint

This condition is perfect plus. Knives in this category must be flawless, and must have additional characteristics that set them apart from mint. They could have an unusually good fit for example.

Mint

This would be a knife that has never been carried, never sharpened, never used, and does not have rust problems of any kind. Some collectors will classify a very old knife that has a few rust marks as mint (especially those made prior to WWII). The newer the knife gets from there, the less rust specs it must have to maintain its mint status.

In addition, most Case knife collectors are a bit more strict on grading knives. An old Case knife with any rust mark would not be considered mint. Note: A knife that had rust, and was cleaned to look mint would be considered near mint or worse depending on how harshly it was cleaned.

Near Mint

There must be nothing wrong with a near mint knife. It should "walk and talk" and must have most of the original polish visible on the blades. Very light sharpening would be acceptable, but the blades must be full. It can have some light rust spots, but no deep rust pits. Some light carry scratches are permitted on the outside as well.

Excellent

Knives in this condition would constitute a solid, lightly used knives. There may be a bit of blade wear (no more than 10% on any one blade), and some tarnish and light pitting would be acceptable. Blades should still snap well, and the tang mark should still be clear.

Very Good

Knives in this category are generally fairly well used knives. There may be blade wear of up to 25%. The blades should still be sound, but one or more may be slow. The stamping should be readable, but may be faint. The handles may have cracks and wear, but shouldn't have major chipping. The knife might also have some rust pitting and tarnish.

Good

Knives in good condition must still be useable as a working knife. Blade wear may be between 25-50%. There might be chips in the handle or blade. Blades may be slow with deep pits and rust. You should still be able to make out the maker of the knife by shield or tang stamp.

Poor

A poor knife is generally only good for parts. The blades might be less than 50%, extra lazy or even broken. Tang marks are generally barely legible, and the handles may be chipped.

Junk

Anything less than poor. These knives would be pretty much worthless. May have a liner, back spring or bolster that would be salvageable for parts, but probably not even that.

What does new, used, vintage and antique knives mean?

New knives: Never sold to a customer and never used. New as shipped by the manufacturer or distributor with all original packing (box, sheath, etc.) and instructions. Knives or any merchandise sold as "New" must be eligible for full warranty service from the officially authorized importer, distributor, or factory in the USA. New is what most knife stores sell and they are generally current production knives.

Used knives: Any knife that has been owned by a customer, even if it is like new. Used knives may not have the sheath, accessories or box that they came with. They vary in condition, from like new to completely worn out. By this definition most knives are used, including vintage and antique.

Vintage knives: Knives made after World War II (1945), but not still in production. They are no longer made. A vintage knife will usually be higher in cost than when it was originally produced, but many times it will not cost any more than a similar made knife today if you can find one.

Antique knives or Old knives: Any knife made before World War II (1945).



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Monday, October 18, 2010

Knife Review Video of the Week - SOG Trident Folding Knife

This week's Knife Review Video of the Week is SOG TRIDENT KNIFE





SOG's mission was to create an updated SOG folding knife based on historical proven design but launched from a platform of new technology. Somehow, when you see it, you immediately know it is a SOG. When you use it, you definitely know it is a SOG. At a casual glance it has elements of our original SOG Bowie, Tomcat, SEAL Pup, Flash, etc. Upon a closer look, it has features never before put into a knife.

The SOG Trident uses the well-proven means of delivering a knife blade to the open position with S.A.T. (SOG Assisted Technology). Now using the patent pending Arc-Actuator™, the Trident locks stronger and releases easier. There is also a built-in safety to lock the blade closed. When it shows red, you are ready to go.

What also makes the Trident so unique is the patent pending Groove™ in the handle, which allows the operator to cut paracord, fishing line, etcetera without having to open the blade.
The Trident's blade is an evolution as well. Taking key elements from previous blade shapes created a distinct hybrid of form and function.

The Trident embodies the spirit of our elite special forces throughout the world. The only thing that it doesn't come with is testosterone...you have to supply that.

Specifications:

Blade: 3.75" x .125"
Overall Length: 8.5"
Weight: 4.5 oz
Steel: AUS8 Stainless Rc 57-58
Clip: Reversible SOG Bayonet Clip



I will be posting a video which I've chosen as the "Knife Review Video of the Week" every Monday.
If you have, or know of a knife review video which would be a good choice for "Knife Review Video of the Week" please send your requests to swordofodinknifeblog@gmail.com





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Friday, October 15, 2010

Kershaw Ken Onion Bump Knife Review


After a long wait, Kershaw Knives finally did it again. They released a high end Ken Onion designed model called the Bump. It's perhaps the sexiest looking piece I've seen come from this dynamic duo. There are curves all over this beauty! There is not one straight line on this piece, making for a visually exciting knife as well as comfortable to hold and use. The 3-D machining and anodizing gives the titanium handle a lot of vibrance as well as texture. One look at this piece and you can easily discern that this design came from the mind of Ken Onion.

The Bump's blade shape kind of defies definition. It is essentially a clip point with a bump in the profile of the belly, hence the moniker [I guess!]. Anyhow, it is 3.5 inches long, flat ground out of 1/8" S30V stock. Dual thumb studs are present though I don't see the point in having them on this knife as there is a flipper which aids in opening the blade fast and easy with the assistance of the Speed Safe mechanism. Out of the box the edge was laser sharp per Kershaw's usual work. Grinds are even, though on this particular sample the swedge grinds are off a bit. Though, this has no impact on performance and barely visible unless you look at it up close.

The handle is milled from 6AL/4V titanium and there is an integral lock cut out of one of the scales. Integral locks are stronger than your standard liner lock® and also make the knife thinner due to the lack of liners. The buyer has a choice of two handle colors - blue and green. Both come with gold highlights and the 3-D textured surface. While the texturing adds to the look, it also gives the user a nice grip as the surface isn't so slick. Though, the appearance of the blue or green handles maybe a bit too "festive" for some, I find them to be refreshing. This knife will clearly stand out in a sea of black and grey knives. A steel pocket clip is mounted at the pivot end to carry the Bump tip down in the pocket, and does so relatively low.

The lockup is excellent. No play in any direction and the blade snaps out instantly with the tug of the flipper when the blade is closed. Action is smooth. So far, the Bump has been a pleasure to carry. It also is a nice conversation starter too with its sexy curves and vibrant handle treatment. Performance wise, the S30V steel is the best you can get today and a big kudos goes out to Kershaw for opting to use this steel for the Bump. The large finger recess in the handle forms sort of an integral finger guard in which to protect your hand from sliding up on the blade.

The swells in the handle are in all the right places to fill your grip nicely. It feels as if the knife were molded to your hand. The blade geometry and shape facilitates easy cutting. The bump in the cutting edge allows for easy slicing when using a smooth, even, sawing motion. So, the blade's appearance does have function as well as aesthetics. No complaints at all in the blade department! I even had to do some work with the knife that required some work with the tip of the blade. The Bump handled this task well. I was able to choke up on the handle and blade effectively to provide the necessary control.

Kershaw has struck a gold mine when they paired up with Ken Onion. Chives. Leeks. Whirlwinds. Blurs. And now, Bumps. Another winner in this knife design tag-team. My recommendations would be to produced a "toned down" version for those who might think the blue or green anodizing to be a bit too flashy for their tastes. Also, the dual thumb studs could be done away with since the flipper offers quick and easy deployment with either hand - even for those not familiar with the Speed Safe assist opening mechanism. While Ken Onion's designs are certainly very pleasing to the eye, their appearances are not in any way overshadowed by performance, and Ken's knives are designed to perform as well as they look. And the Kershaw Bump is no exception to this. The Kershaw Ken Onion Bump Knife will add a high performance flash to any collection so get yours today!



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Friday, October 8, 2010

Kitchen Knife Care Tips

The following helpful tips and reminders can prolong the life of your kitchen cutlery and will ensure the final food product is at its best in texture and flavor:

Proper Use

Weather you're indoors using your chef knives and kitchen knife set or outdoors using your camping knives or fillet knife, you need to make sure that the blade lands on a relatively soft surface such as wood or plastic rather than on a hard surface such as metal or ceramic. Constant striking on a hard surface will dull the blade rapidly and dramatically hinder your knife's performance even if you're using hard ceramic knives.

Although it may be tempting at times, refrain from using your cooking knives for prying, as a screwdriver, as a chisel, or for anything kitchen cutlery was not intended. It is also not recommended to use the back or side of your kitchen cutlery as hammering instruments unless it is specifically designed to handle that task. Doing so may cause the pins, springs, or handle to loosen or even break.

Sand and grit should be kept away from the knife, so be attentive when outdoors using your camping knives or fillet knife. And, if your knife gets wet you should dry it right away. It's recommended to wash the blade with a mild soapy water solution then dry it completely.

Knives should be washed by hand and thoroughly dried immediately because wood tends to swell, so it is not a good idea to immerse wood handled knives in water for a prolonged period of time. Rub mineral oil on wood handles periodically to maintain their luster. Lemon oil or any good furniture polish is good for feeding wood handled knives and will help maintain the life of your fine kitchen cutlery and cooking knives for years to come.

Stainless Steel

The term "stainless steel" signifies that the knife will not rust in a humid atmosphere and that it will resist the various acids in daily use. It does not mean, however, that the steel is absolutely rustproof. The coarser the surface finish, the more likely it is to corrode. In other words, the more finely ground or polished the surface of the blade, the more resistant to corrosion it is.

The expertise of a knife manufacturer shows itself in his ability to select the appropriate steel for the intended purpose. A quality kitchen blade is generally achieved by the corresponding chemical composition and appropriate heat treatment. Top name brands like Kyocera, Zwilling J.A. Henckels and Chicago Cutlery all have this authority thanks to their long tradition in cutlery manufacturing and, as with Zwilling J.A. Henckels, also as a manufacturer of steel.

Although most blades today are predominantly made of a hard grade stainless steel, surface rust or stains will inevitably form. This can usually be cleaned with a mild scouring powder, or mildly abrasive pad.

Advantages of Ceramic Knives:

  • Ultra-Sharp Long Life Blade
    Holds its edge much longer than steel. Lasts many months or years without sharpening.
  • Stain and Rust Proof
    Impervious to the food acids which discolor steel products.
  • No Metallic Taste or Smell
    Maintains the fresh taste of food. Won't brown fruits and vegetables.
  • Easy to Clean
    Non-stick ceramic surface makes for easy clean-up.
  • Easy to Use
    Lightweight and perfect balance make it a pleasure to use.

Ceramic knives should not be put in the dishwasher, as the strong jets may cause them to chip other objects or to become chipped themselves. A quick wipe and rinse is all that should be needed to keep your ceramic knives in great condition. For storage purposes, your ceramic knives will do just fine in a knife block, drawer or however you store your other kitchen cutlery and cooking knives.

Maintenance

Regular maintenance of your kitchen knives insures a lifetime of cooking pleasure. The key to keeping your knives sharp and long-lasting is to keep the edge of the blade aligned. With regular use, any knife's edge will lose its sharpness. Under magnification, you would see that the cutting edge takes on a wavy S-shape. It is important frequently to re-align the edge of the blade with a honing steel and oil, to keep the edge of the blade straight, or eventually these S-shaped curves will bend back over themselves and permanently damage the knife.

Sharpening your cooking knives on a periodic basis will not only extend the life of the blade, it is also a safety rule! Please see my knife sharpening tips for more information. Please note, although your ceramic knives should not require sharpening but once every few years, they do require handling with care.

I hope you've enjoyed this article and make use of these helpful kitchen knife tips and reminders for your safety, pleasurable cooking and great tasting food!


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Friday, October 1, 2010

Bayonets History

"All nations boast of their prowess with the bayonet but few men really enjoy a hand-to-hand fight with the bayonet. English and French both talk much of the bayonet but in Egypt in 1801 they threw stones at each other when their ammunition was exhausted and one English sergeant was killed by a stone.

At Inkerman again the British threw stones at the Russians, not without effect; and I am told upon good authority that the Russians and Japanese, both of whom proffes to love the bayonet, threw stones at each other rather than close, even in this twentieth-century."



Antique Spanish hunt Plug Bayonet from 1700

The bayonet stems directly from the various forms of polearm, it was obviously inappropriate to have a firearm-bearing soldier encumbered by a pike, yet there was need for a polearm to stand off cavalry and for hand-to-hand encounters when ammunition was gone or when there was no time to reload.

The original "bayonnette" - the name came from the town of its supposed origin, Bayonne in France - was introduced into the French Army in 1647.

It was a plug bayonet, a spear-like blade to which was attached a long conical steel plug inserted directly into the muzzle of the soldier`s musket, a collar lodging against the barrel to prevent it sliding too far in. This had certain defects; the musket could not be fired once the bayonet was fitted, and during the act of fitting the soldier was virtually unarmed. Misfortune overtook an English army at Killiecrankie in 1689, when a sudden rush of Scottish Highlanders overwhelmed them as they were fixing bayonets.

As a result of these defects, the socket bayonet was developed; this had the blade cranked and attached to a hollow sleeve which slipped over the muzzle of the musket. The blade lay below the axis of the barrel and left sufficient clearance to permit the weapon to be loaded and fired while the bayonet was fixed.

Although generally considered as the infantryman`s assault weapon, the bayonet was originally a defensive instrument. Steady infantry standing two or three deep and adopting a "square" formation could defend their position against a sudden rush of cavalry; the combined length of the musket and bayonet was sufficient to permit a standing soldier to reach a man mounted upon a horse.


The 28th of Foot form a square at Waterloo to resist a French cavalry

The idea of using a short sword as a bayonet was tried from time to time but the first regular users of the sword-type blade appear to have been the British rifle regiments in the early 1800s. However, the advent of breech-loading, and then magazine arms provided infantry with a firepower capable of beating off cavalry, at which time the bayonet turned from being primarily defensive to being a personal offensive weapon. For this a knife-like blade was of more use than a spike blade, and so from the middle of the 19th century the knife or sword blade became common, though a few armies still retained spike blades.

The difficulties of fixing bayonets in the heat of the battle led some armies to adopt permanently-attached bayonets which folded above or below the barrel of the weapon and could be released and locked into place very quickly when required. A singularity of the Imperial Russian Army, which carried over into the Soviet Army, was the permanently fixed bayonet; no scabbards were issued, and the bayonet remained on the rifle muzzle at all times.

With the adoption of modern short assault rifles the utility of the bayonet as a weapon was placed in doubt; the combination is not well suited to bayonet fighting.



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Monday, September 27, 2010

Piper Knife Fighting System

While scouring the internet, I came across an article and several videos regarding the Piper Knife Fighting System.

The Piper System is a study of Cape Town and South African knife combatives assembled and organized into a structure, much like a Martial Art, over a period of years.

The following are excerpts from an article I found regarding the Piper Knife Fighting System.

1"The name Piper System and the unique method of blade combat that uses the name are the creations of Nigel February. Nigel, his students and his designated representatives are the only Piper System exponents. The Piper System is a study of Cape Town and South African knife combatives assembled and organized into a structure, much like a Martial Art, over a period of years. Lloyd De Jongh added extensive additional research and created
a learning format for the material in conjunction with Erik Petermann and Jason Williams.

Piper was created to save lives... our own. We were afraid of the skills that our violent criminal element possessed - which we had extreme difficulty coping with utilizing the numerous Western and Asian approaches to Martial Arts we had collectively learned. This fear was widely prevalent, and we found that many were very interested in learning what we knew. Many individuals have since added useful contributions to the pool of knowledge.

Before collecting all the various gang and street methods into the organized system called Piper, it was just called Cape Town knife fighting. Different areas and different gangs had various styles and only a few techniques - but nothing as complete as Piper existed. A typical knifer had a couple of techniques and no conception that there was a discernible underlying method involved. This wasn’t a Martial Art with a syllabus. Gangs therefore had a group of individuals each with one or two of their own and some general, borrowed techniques - their method having a particular regional style and an overall African ‘flavor’. Piper was about painstakingly collecting all of those individual techniques and styles of movement into categories that we Martial Artists could relate to, then compiling a complete system for the edged, blunt, improvised weapons and the empty hand method called Form Style. The blade is a primary weapon, empty hand methods can be considered an adjunct.

N.B. Before we continue, in the interests of clearing up some common misunderstandings, we want to make it clear that:

  • Piper is NOT a Zulu system. It is not ‘Zulu knife fighting’ - there is no such thing. Zulus are not indigenous to and live far from the Western Cape, the Xhosa-dominated province in which Nigel and Lloyd grew up
  • Gangsters and convicts in Cape Town do not acknowledge a preexisting system of knife combat - in all our interviews they are unaware of such a thing, and they will have no knowledge of a Piper System because it is our creation."




What is the Piper Knife Fighting System? "It begins with a group of martial artists training in a garage one night. I had been doing a lengthy study of criminal psychology and strategy, however I lacked a cohesive understanding of the physical tactics and weapons (knives, clubs and machetes) involved. A chance question to Nigel elicited a response which has caused something of a controversy around the world. We have studied the way criminals in our country have used knives in the commission of crimes (to mug, murder, rape and intimidate). This is the opposite side of the coin to what and why martial artists study knives. What we learned about how criminals use knives conflicted with the way martial artists view, utilize and are taught knife skills.

Many have searched for the holy grail in the blade arts, for that elusive ‘truth’ in edged weapons combat. Some feel they have found it in the training hall, they call themselves ‘knife fighters’. Others have found their truth - and are grateful to merely label themselves survivors. Then there are those who have found a deeper truth in blade combat - we call them murderers, thugs, muggers, rapists, gangsters and convicts.

We’ve codified the various seemingly unrelated, random methods that our proficient criminal elements employ into a system, a system which Nigel named Piper. For a description of the origin behind the name, please see his blog post “Piper - the origin of a name”, or view his video interview.

The method that we call Piper sends people to morgues and emergency wards as we speak - it teaches the truth of edged weapons combat as we experience it in our corner of the globe, a place where knives are a daily threat, where communities have lived with fear for years. The system with a style of movement, deceptiveness, viciousness and an application that is radically different to anything in “Martial Arts” - its origin is not based on stylistic imperatives, but on criminal requirements."

Regarding the Piper Knife Fighting System, some say, it is "not a martial art, nor is it even a fighting system. It is murder, plain and simple. It's effectiveness is by and large dependent on shock and surprise. You ambush the guy and then proceed to torture him with a barrage of "woodpecker" attacks from countless different -- and unpredictable -- angles. I would also like to point out that it relies on the shock and awe response that someone, who unexpectedly finds themselves assaulted by a knife, will commonly exhibit -- namely stepping backwards. Attempting to "fight" such an attack will only result in the person -- well let's say that it would be like trying to fight a swarm of bees armed with razors. This is why people with experience with unhappy times looked at it and shifted gears into "just kill him" mode as their tactical response."

In my opinion, whether a person is being attacked " with a barrage of 'woodpecker' attacks from countless different and unpredictable angles" or a flurry of swift, sharp attacks with a kerambit, your survival instinct will immediately kick in and you would try to kill, or at the very least, maim the attacker.




1 Source: www.jkd.gr/







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Knife Lore of the Anglo Saxons

The Anglo-Saxons, better known as the English, were originally named after the knives they carried. These were the "Saxe", which incidentally still means "knife" in modern North German dialect, North Germany being where the ancestors of the English came from. So, the "Saxons" translates into modern English as the "knife-men".

The Saxe was about 16" overall, with a 12-13" blade, which ended in what we would now call a "gut hook". Except that it was highly sharpened, and was in fact a "ripping-hook". The obvious purpose was to rip open their opponents in combat.

Their proverbial ancestor was named "Saxe-noth", which means "knife-daring". Presumably this was the nickname of one of their real ancestors, renowned for his exploits with this kind of knife.

The "Saxe" was the Saxons' "trademark", and, indeed, part of their pagan religion.

Every, and I do mean every, Saxon man, woman or child was buried with a knife. Even small children were buried with knives that they wouldn't have been able to use for another 4-5 years had they lived. The Saxons saw to it that their dead would not be defenseless in the next world, as the English (their descendents) saying goes: "you never know"...

The Saxons converted to Christianity from their pagan religion soon after they came to England, and by 700 or 800 AD, they were sending missionaries to convert their cousins back in Germany. As Christians, they no longer followed the old customs mentioned above quite as much.

The Celts were first mentioned in writing by the Greeks around 400 BC, when they called the ancestors of present-day Celts “Keltoi”, but it is reasonable to suppose that that was the Celts' own name for themselves. Celts were known in ancient times for their cleverness and bravery.

Scientists believe that the Celts had their origin in a valley on the southwestern slopes of the Alps, near the southeast border of France. From there they spread out to many parts of Europe and the Near East, and in modern times, to the rest of the world.

The modern branches are, starting from the South, the Britons of Northeastern France in Brittany, the Cornish in the southwest corner of England, the Welsh in Wales (Western England), the Irish (no longer British, but see below), and the Scots (whose ancestors mostly came from Northern Ireland). In the Near East, the Galatians mentioned in the Bible, to whom St. Paul wrote that "whatever a man soweth, that shall he reap", were Celts who had immigrated there. A local king induced 20,000 of them to settle there as soldiers in his army and traders back in 200 BC with grants of land and money. Many cities now in Germany were also originally Celtic, like Trier (Treves in French), as well as almost all of France. There were important groups of Celts in Spain as well.

Celts attacked and looted Rome in early days when it was just another small Italian city, before it became the center of the Roman Empire. They extracted a very high price in gold as well. The Romans got the gold back with interest a few hundred years later, when Julius Caesar conquered the Celts, and extracted their large supplies of gold from them through the tribute and taxes he and his successors made them pay.

The Celts were also the "Metal Masters" of the Ancient World. Metalworking was their specialty, and all who could afford it bought their blades from them. This included the Roman Army, whose swords were made by a branch of the Celts in Spain at that time, and imported by the Romans.

Germans were then far behind in all of this, and could manage to make a spear point or knife if it wasn't too big, but swords were rare among them and very highly prized. These were made by the Celts as one of their specialties. The sword was usually leaf-shaped, and examples can be seen in reproductions offered on the web, like the "Sting" sword of The Lord of the Rings.

The fight between Germans and Celts began with the Saxon migration to England from 500 AD to 650 AD. They were joined by their neighbors the Angles and the Jutes (from Jutland, now in Denmark), and were known in general as Anglo Saxons, as they are today. They pushed the Celts out of Eastern and Southern England, so that they remained on the Western and Northern borders: Cornwall, Wales, Ireland, and Scotland, where they mostly are today.

On the other hand, the German and Celtic nobility considered themselves equal, and developed family ties over the centuries.

Later, about 500 years ago, many Celts migrated to England to share in the prosperity that would later lead to the British Empire.

So both at the noble level as well as the common level, especially in the larger towns and cities, the English are partly German and partly Celtic. After Ireland became independent, and so were no longer British, the Celtic population of England still remained there, while the Irish and most of the other Celts, over the centuries, had adopted English customs, standards, and language, and so became almost exactly like the English.



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Friday, September 24, 2010

Swiss Army Knives

Have a Need for a special-purpose multi tool? Swiss Army Knives might be the answer!

Swiss Army Knives were invented by Carl Elsener, a surgical equipment company owner, in 1891. Elsener started Victorinox and some years later also acquired Wenger company. Originally intended for officers and soldiers of the Swiss army, genuine Swiss Army pocket knives have become an expression for versatility and portability.

Today, boy scouts and girl scouts all around the world have enjoyed the use of an incredibly versatile multi tool called the classic Swiss Army Knife. The Swiss Army Knife has also been successfully proven on expeditions: in the arctic ice of the North Pole; on the highest peak on earth, Mount Everest; in the tropical rain forests of the Amazon, and elsewhere.

A Swiss Army knife (SAK) is a multifunction hand tool or special-purpose multi tool. It can usually be distinguished by its red casing, printed with a white shield and cross, the emblem of Switzerland. Generally speaking, a Swiss Army knife sports a blade as well as various tools, such as screwdrivers and can openers. Other tools used are tweezers, toothpick, corkscrew, phillips-head screwdriver, nail file and scissors. Other models include a saw, hook, magnifying glass, ballpoint pen, fish scaler which doubles as a 7cm (3 inch) ruler, pliers/wire cutters, key chain and with todays technology even USB flash storage, digital clock, digital altimeter, LED light, laser pointer, and MP3 player! And, some models make the perfect engraved gift.

The standard full-size Swiss Army Knife is approximately 3.5in (9cm) long and .75in (2cm) wide; smaller models like the tinker, pioneer and companion are typically about 2.25in (6cm) long and .5in (1.5cm) wide. Thickness varies depending on the number of tools included. A flat version with somewhat fewer tools (but still retaining a knife) the size and shape of a credit card, known as a SwissCard, can be stored in a typical wallet.

Facts

  • This useful pocket knife was legally registered on June 12, 1897. Over 34,000 of these pocket tools with the distinctive Swiss cross leave the factory in central Switzerland each day.
  • Ninety per cent are for export to over 100 different countries and serve as ambassadors for Switzerland.
  • Founder, Carl Elsener, wanted to create work in sparsely industrialized central Switzerland and counter the emigration spawned by unemployment. To go from hand-crafting to industrial production was at the time adventurous and required enormous determination. Today, this family business in Schwyz provides 950 jobs.
  • After an unparalleled success story around the world, the VICTORINOX "Swiss Army Knife" is even orbiting the earth as part of the standard equipment of the Space Shuttle Crew.
  • Over 34,000 of these pocket tools with the distinctive Swiss cross leave the factory in central Switzerland each day.

Did You Know?

  • The largest Swiss Army Knife model is the "SwissChamp" with 33 features. Over 450 steps are required in its manufacture.
  • Over 34,000 of these pocket tools with the distinctive Swiss cross leave the factory in central Switzerland each day.
  • Today, Carl Elsener III (the grandson of the founder) holds the reins and the small Victorinox cutlery became a large firm.
  • In 1897, Swiss cutlery maker Carl Elsener patented his penknife, later to become known as the Swiss army knife.
  • The New York Museum of Modern Art and the State Museum for Applied Art in Munich have selected it for their collection of excellence in design, and, since Lyndon B. Johnson, US presidents present guests with VICTORINOX pocket knives.
  • Ninety per cent are for export to over 100 different countries and serve as ambassadors for Switzerland.

Time and again, Swiss Army Knives have been a life saver in situations of extreme danger and great need. Get your discount Swiss Army Knife today!




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Monday, September 20, 2010

Detecting Counterfeit Knives

Unfortunately, there are a few knuckle-heads out there who are eager to make a buck in the knife business by any means necessary. Some might attempt to steal our precious little gems, while others may try to defraud us by selling imitation knives.

Many counterfeit knives by modifying existing knives to imitate more valuable pieces. Most of these crooks prey on the beginner and novice collectors, but some counterfeiters are good at what they do and a can sometimes fool a veteran collector.

Reproduction or Counterfeiting is probably the largest problem with knife collecting. Rest assured however, that it is not that big of a problem. There are usually telling signs of an imitation that are obvious if you know what to look for. You can protect yourself by taking a few simple precautions.

Educate Yourself

The most important thing that you can do is educate yourself. Before you go off putting much money into knives read a lot about them, talk to other collectors, and ask lots of questions.

Closely examine what you are buying.

Check for the following:

  1. Make sure all parts match. Some counterfeits are made by taking pieces from two or more knives and turning them into one. Look to make sure all of the metal parts have similar age marks. If you find a knife with tarnished, old looking back springs with brand new looking blades for example, you know something is not right.
  2. Make sure the tang of the knife is the same width as the back springs. Counterfeiters will often take an old knife and grind away the existing stamp and re-stamp or etch on one of more value. This trick can usually be spotted by comparing the width of the tang with the back springs. If the tang has been ground, it will be thinner than the springs. Some counterfeiters will go the extra length to take the knife apart and grind down the springs to match. Most will not go to this extreme unless it is a very valuable piece. If this is the case, you can match the back spring width with a like pattern knife made by the same manufacturer around the same period.
  3. Make sure the pattern number and tang stamp match the knife you are looking at. If you find a knife with a pattern number that indicates that it has bone handles, but you notice that the knife is made with genuine stag, you should stay away from it. This goes along with educating yourself about knives. Learn about pattern numbers and tang stamps from books, this website, or by talking to other collectors.
  4. Make sure the person that you are buying from is reputable.
    Ask around. Make sure that the dealer is respected and has a sell-back guarantee. Any good dealer will allow you to return a knife if it is not what you thought it was. It is crucial to their reputation.

If there is any doubt in your mind, get a second opinion.

There is usually a knowledgeable well respected knife collector or dealer around when you are considering buying a knife. Ask someone you trust if there is anything that you are not certain about.


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