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Showing posts with label knife. Show all posts
Showing posts with label knife. Show all posts

Monday, December 20, 2010

Knife Review Video of the Week - Cold Steel Spartan

This week's Knife Review Video of the Week is: Cold Steel Spartan Knife Review.

Cold Steel Spartan Folding Kopis 4-1/2" Blade, Grivory Handles

If you are looking for the biggest, baddest pocket-able folding knife, you have come to the right place.

When I took my Cold Steel Spartan knife out of the package, I remembered thinking "holy crap! This thing is massive." And when I opened it up, I remembered thinking, "holy crap! This thing is scary!"

The blade is made of Japanese AUS 8A stainless steel with a bit of a dull gray finish. The blade is 4-1/2" long and 1-1/2" across it's belly. It is 4mm thick, or a little more than 1/8" thick for the non-metric minded folks (actually 0.157"). The blade is big and thick and sturdy. It tapers to a very sharp point that will push it's way through anything. As I've found with other Cold Steel knives, the blade is extremely sharp. You have to really be attentive when handling this knife to keep from accidentally cutting yourself.Link

A small rectangular thumb plate is screwed to the top of the blade to make it easy to open. Cold Steel claims you can catch this thumb plate on your pants pocket as you pull the knife out and easily snap the blade open during the extraction. You can flip this thumb plate and flick the knife sharply to pop the blade open, but it takes practice to perfect this. The blade is so big and heavy, you really have to flick your wrist sharply.

The handle is made of "Grivory" (Grivory is a glass-filled nylon similar to Zytel only even more rigid). It is textured nicely for comfortable handling, along with "irregular fluting" for a good feeling grip. It has steel liners inside and is very strong and solid feeling. The cutouts for your hand are really the high point of this grip, in my opinion. My not so dainty hand fits perfectly in the scooped out sections and the feeling of confidence with this grip is incredible. I can't imagine anything causing your hand to slip or move in this grip, whether you're pushing the knife into something or pulling it out.


For personal defense, this knife is awesome. I shudder to think what I could do to another living thing if I were forced to defend myself with this knife. Its sharpness and size would severely damage any adversary. In fact, any reasonably sane mugger would see my Spartan and probably apologize and give me their wallet.
Here's the deal for anyone living in a free state that "allows" its citizens to own what they please. Getting trapped in an office building with glitchy fire doors is far more likely to happen than needing a serious folder in the wilderness. Gone are the days when a sturdy axe was available on every floor, but with something like the Spartan you won't need one. Carrying a fixed blade with comparable strength is simply not possible for most, so for those who aren't all weepy about carrying a few extra OUNCES around, the Spartan might be the way to go.

For more information or to buy the Cold Steel Spartan, please click the link below.

Cold Steel Spartan Folding Kopis 4-1/2" Blade, Grivory Handles



I will be posting a video which I've chosen as the "Knife Review Video of the Week" every Monday. If you have, or know of a knife review video which would be a good choice for "Knife Review Video of the Week" please send your requests to: swordofodinknifeblog@gmail.com




All Comments are Welcome and Appreciated.



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Thursday, November 18, 2010

Blade Shapes

There are many options available, and this is not meant to cover every knife blade design configuration, but it will serve as a handy reference to some of the most common, with an indication of their intended purpose.

The three most commonly used blade shapes

Clip - The length and angle of the concave curve on the non-cutting portion of the point determines whether a clip blade is just a "clip" (short, pronounced curve), a "California" clip (longer, gentler curve) or a so-called "Turkish" clip (very elongated). The sharp point is effective for detail work, but is not as strong as a thicker blade.


Modified Clip - A recent design development that has proved popular on high-tech, one-hand opener knives. Exact shapes vary.


Drop-Point - This blade has a gentle, sloping convex curve to the point without the concave curve of the clip blade. Its thicker point is stronger for heavier tasks. The thicker tip is a positive for abuse but a negative for easy penetration.


Other Blade Shapes

Sheepsfoot - Got its name from the shape of the point resembling the hoof of a sheep. With its distinctive flat, straight-line cutting edge and rounded point, it's well suited to giving you a clean cut, especially on a flat cutting surface.


Spey - As the name indicates, this blade was originally developed to neuter farm animals. Rather blunt point avoids poking through a surface by accident, and the overall blade configuration makes the spey function well suited for skinning and sweeping knife strokes.


Pen or Spear - This is a smaller version of the larger "spear point" blade. Spear points are more popular in Europe, while in America, the clip blade is the preferred option. Pen blades are usually on pocket knives as a handy, all purpose blade. It was originally developed to trim quill pens, and that name has stuck through the years.


Coping - A narrow blade with a sharp, angular point, almost like a miniature sheepsfoot blade, designed to be used for cutting in tight spots or curved patterns, much as you would with a coping saw, only without the teeth.


Tanto - The tanto is a traditional Japanese design dating back to feudal Japan. The angled grind from the edge to the tip is much heavier and stronger than other blade styles. It is used for piercing hard/tough materials and for prying or scraping.




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Friday, November 5, 2010

Knife Glossary of Terms

General Terms

Back - The back of the blade is the opposite side of the belly, for single edged pocket or bowie knives this would be the unsharpened side. The back can contain lashing grommets, jimping, it's own edge or false edge, and serrations.

Belly - The belly is the curving part of the blade edge. Bellies enhance slicing and may be plain or serrated. One note, the point of the knife becomes less sharp the larger the belly is. When choosing a knife you should decide whether penetration or slicing is the most important, and keep the design of this part of the knife in mind.

Bevel - The bevel is the sloping area(s) that fall from the spine towards the edge and false edge of the blade.

Blade - See Blade Steels (below) .

Blade Spine - This is the thickest part of a blade. On a single-edge, flat-ground bowie knife, the blade spine would be at the back of the blade. For double-edged blades, the blade spine would be found right down the middle.

Butt/Pommel - The butt, or the pommel is the very end of the bowie knife. The butt/pommel will be found in different shapes, depending on what features it was designed to implement. Some flat metal butts/pommels are good for hammering. There are pointed metal butts/pommels, known as bonecrusher pommels used on combat fighting knives, combat tactical knives, combat survival knives and large bowie knives. They can be decorative, or contain a lanyard hole. Some butt/pommels are designed to be removed to be able to store items in the handle or may contain an additional smaller blade or tool.

Butt Cap
- A metal cap fitted over the pommel is referred to as a butt cap.

Choil - The choil is the unsharpened part of the blade. It is left at full thickness like the blade spine and is found where the blade becomes part of the handle. Sometimes the choil will be shaped (An indentation) to accept the index finger. It also allows the full edge of the blade to be sharpened.

Crink - A crink is a bend at the beginning of the tang that keeps multi-bladed pocket knives from rubbing against each other.

Edge
- This is the sharpened side of the blade. Blades will have a single or double edge (or dagger style) depending on the design.

Escutcheon - this is a small pin or piece of metal attached to the handle for engraving, branding, or just decoration.

False Edge - Widely used on military and combat fighting knives, a false edge blade is an additional bevel on the back of the blade enhancing the blade's point. This edge can be sharpened or not. The false edge can also be used for heavier cutting that might be damaging to the cutting edge.

Guard - The guard is a separate piece of metal attached between the blade and the top of the handle to protect hands from the edge during cutting.

Hilt - The entire handle, including the butt/pommel and the guard.

Kick - The kick is found on a pocket knife, usually Boker pocket knives, and is the projection on the front edge of the tang, the blade rests here in the closed position and keep the front part the edge from hitting the spring.

Lanyard Hole - This is a hole to fit a lanyard, rope or carrying implement through.

Lashing Grommets/Jimping - These terms refer to notches that are designed into the back lower part of the blade for better thumb control.

Mark Side - This is another pocket knife term and is the side of the blade with the nail mark.

Nail Mark/Nail Nick - On a pocket knife blade the nail mark is a groove cut into the blade so that it can be opened using your fingernail. Most Case pocket knives use this method of opening the blade.

Obverse Side - The obverse side is the front or display section of a knife.

Point - The tip of the blade. For more information see Blade Shapes.

Pile Side - The reverse side of the blade, opposite of the obverse side.

Pocket Blade - This is the largest blade on a multi-bladed knife.

Pen Blade - The pen blade is the smallest blade on a multi-bladed knife.

Quillon - The quillon is the area of the guard that extends past the section surrounding the tang and is the most protective part of the guard.

Ricasso - The ricasso is the flat section of the blade between the guard and the start of the bevel. This is where you will most often find the tang stamp.

Scales - The scales are pieces that are attached to a full tang to form the handle.

Scrimshaw - Scrimshaw is the art of etching decorative designs into ivory or simulated ivory handles.

Serrated Edge - Serrations are a set of "teeth" or notches on the back or front of the blade to aid in cutting.

Swedge - A swedge is a bevel on the back of the blades.

Tang-Stamp - This is an imprinting that can show style number, collector's number, manufacturer's name. This is normally located on the ricasso.


Handle Materials

STAG
Derived from naturally shed deer antlers. When exposed to open flame, stag takes on that slightly burnt look. Very elegant material for pocket knives and gentlemens folding knives.

BONE
Derived from naturally deceased animals. Bone is usually given a surface texture, most commonly in the forms of pickbone and jigged bone. Bone can be dyed to achieve bright colors (e.g. green, blue, and black). This is the most common handle material for pocket knives.

G-10
A fiberglass based laminate. Layers of fiberglass cloth are soaked in resin and are compressed and baked. The resulting material is very hard, lightweight, and strong. Surface texture is added in the form of checkering. G-10 is an ideal material for tactical folding knives or fighting knives because of its ruggedness and lightweight. It is usually available in black.

MICARTA
The most common form is linen micarta. Similar construction as G-10. The layers of linen cloths are soaked in a phoenolic resin. The end product is a material that is lightweight, strong, as well as having a touch of class (thus dressier than G-10). Micarta has no surface texture, it is extremely smooth to the touch. It is a material that requires hand labor, which translates into a higher priced knife. Micarta is a relatively soft material that can be scratched if not treated properly.

CARBON FIBER
Composed of thin strands of carbon, tightly woven in a weave pattern, that are set in resin. It is a highly futuristic looking material with a definite "ahhhh" factor. Of all the lightweight synthetic handle materials, carbon fiber is perhaps the strongest. The main visual attraction of this material is the ability of the carbon strands to reflect light, making the weave pattern highly visible. Carbon fiber is also a labor-intensive material that results in a rather pricey knife such as case collectible knives.

ZYTEL
Du Pont developed this thermoplastic material. Of all synthetic materials, ZYTEL is the least expensive to produce, which explains the abundance of work or utility knives that have this material. It is unbreakable: resists impact and abrasions. ZYTEL has a slight surface texture, but knife companies using this material will add additional, more aggressive surface texture to augment this slight texture. Sog Specialty Knives is common for using zytel.

TITANIUM
A nonferrous metal alloy, the most common form of titanium is 6AL/4V: 6% aluminum, 4% vanadium, and 90% pure titanium. This is a lightweight metal alloy that offers unsurpassed corrosion resistance of any metal. It has a warm "grip you back" feel and can be finished either by anodizing or bead blasting. Aside from handles, titanium is also used as liner materials for linerlock knives for it is a rather "springy" metal. Titanium is used usually on collectible pocket knives and chef knives.

ALUMINUM
Just like titanium, aluminum is also a nonferrous metal. Commonly used as handles, aluminum gives the knife a solid feel, without the extra weight. The most common form of aluminum is T6-6061, a heat treatable grade. The most common finishing process for aluminum is anodizing.

ANODIZATION
An electrochemical process which adds color to titanium, which is especially conducive to this coloring process. Depending on the voltage used, colors can vary (high voltage = dark color, low voltage = light color).

BEAD BLASTING
A process by which steel, aluminum, and titanium are finished. Bead blasting is commonly found on tactical folding knives and fixed or bowie knife blades, for it provides a 100% subdued, non-glare finish.


Blade Steels

1) AUS-8 (also referred to as 8A) (some text courtesy of Boker Knife Company) - Commonly found in a Kitchen Knife Set, the words "stainless steel" are misleading, because, in fact all steel will stain or show discoloration if left in adverse conditions for a sufficient time. Steel is made "stainless" by adding Chromium and reducing its Carbon content during the smelting process. Some authorities claim that there is a serious performance trade off with stainless steel: As the Chrome increases and the Carbon decreases, the steel becomes more "stainless". But it also becomes more and more difficult to sharpen and, some claim, the edge-holding potential is seriously impaired. We have found that most stainless steel blades are as sharp as other material blades and hold the edge longer. AUS 8A is a high carbon, low chromium stainless steel that has proven, over time, to be a very good compromise between toughness, strength, edge holding and resistance to corrosion.

2) ATS-34 - premium grade of stainless steel used by most custom knife makers and upper echelon factory knives. Also common with the making of quality tactical folding knives or production collectible pocket knives. It is Japanese steel, owned by Hitachi Steels. The American made equivalent of ATS-34 is 154CM, a steel popularized by renowned maker Bob Loveless. Boker pocket knives are usually made of ATS-34.

3) GIN-1 (formerly known as G2) - another low cost steel, but slightly softer than AUS-8.

4) CPM-T440V - currently touted as the "super steel", it outlasts all stainless steels on the market today. It is, however, harder to resharpen (due to its unprecedented edge retention). But the tradeoff is that you do not have to sharpen as frequently. CPM-T440V is widely used by custom knife makers and is slowly finding its way into high-end or gentlemen's folding knives.

5) SAN MAI III - (text courtesy of Boker Knife Company) An expensive, traditional style Japanese laminate. Hard, high carbon stainless forms the core and edge of the blade, while two layers of tough, spring tempered stainless support and strengthen it. The resulting blade possesses the best qualities of both types of steel. This laminate is 25% stronger than the incredibly tough AUS 8A stainless . The telltale sign of genuine San Mai III is a thin line near the edge that runs the entire length of the blade. This line is created in the grinding process as the layers of steel in the blade are exposed. The distance the line is from the edge varies from knife to knife because every piece of San Mai III steel is unique. Like AUS 8A stainless, San Mai III is treated in modern, precise conveyor furnaces and subjected to a sub zero post hardening process. This improves the microstructure of the steel by eliminating retained austenite. The resulting blades are more elastic and have better edge holding characteristics than standard stainless steels.

6) 420J2 - (text courtesy of Boker Knife Company) Due to its low carbon high chromium content this steel is an excellent choice for making tough (bends instead of breaking), shock absorbing knife blades with excel lent resistance to corrosion and moderate edge holding ability. It is an ideal candidate for knife blades that will be subject to a wide variety of environmental conditions including high temperature, humidity, and airborne corrosives such as salt in a marine environment. This extreme resistance to corrosion via its high chrome content also makes it a perfect choice for knife blades which are carried close to the body or in a pocket and blades which will receive little or no care or maintenance.

Carbon V (From Cold Steel) - An exclusive carbon alloy steel, formulated and extensively treated to achieve exceptional properties. Carbon V was developed and refined by using both metallurgical and performance testing. Blades were subjected to the "Cold Steel Challenge" as a practical test, and then they were sectioned, so that their microstructure could be examined. In this way we arrived at the optimum steel AND the optimum heat treatment sequence to bring out the best in the steel. Cold Steel buys large quantities of premium high carbon cutlery steel with small amounts of elemental alloys added in the smelting stage. These elements enhance the blade's performance in edge holding and elasticity. The steel is then rolled to their exact specifications to establish optimum grain refinement and blades are blanked to take full advantage of the grain direction in the steel.

The blanks are heated in molten salt, quenched in premium oil and tempered in controlled ovens. Then they are ground. The new blades are then subjected to expert heat treatment, involving rigidly controlled austenizing temperatures, precisely defined soak times, proper selection of quenching medium and carefully monitored tempering times and temperatures. This heat treatment sequence results in blades which duplicate and often exceed the properties of the most expensive custom forgings.

Premium U.S. High Carbon (from Cold Steel)- Cold Steel's Premium Carbon Steel is used in a variety of our low cost highly functional knives. Chemical content and microstructure from the mill is specified by Cold Steel and each lot is subjected to the same metallurgical examination before being used in production as our world famous Carbon V. The Steel is a very clean,fine grained material with a high carbon content for toughness and response to heat treatment. Cold Steel has designed a special heat treatment for this material which maximizes toughness in combination with more than acceptable edge holding ability, resulting in a blade which will satisfy even the most discriminating user.

S30V - Revolutionary S30V steel blades are harder, more wear resistant and far less brittle than any standard 440C series stainless steel blade. Tests also show 45% better edge retention than 440C stainless.

Titanium - Unlike stainless steel knives, titanium knives are almost completely rustproof and corrosion resistant because they contain no carbon. The result is a knife that will hold an edge for a very long time. Titanium steel knives require almost no sharpening or maintenance.


Blade Shapes

Clip Point – A clip point blade has a concave or straight cut-out at the tip (The "clip"). This brings the blade point lower for extra control and enhances the sharpness of the tip. You will often find a false edge with the clip point. These types of blades also often have an abundant belly for better slicing capabilities.

Dagger/Double Edge - A double edge blade is sharpened on both sides ending with the point aligned with the spine, in the middle of the blade.

Drop Point – The drop-point blade has lowered tip via a convex arc. This lowers the point for extra control and also leaves the strength. This type of blade also has a good-sized belly for better slicing.

Hook Blade – The edge of a hook blade curves in a concave manner.

Santuko – Is a Japanese chef's knife. The spine curves downward to meet the edge and the belly curves slightly.

Scimitar – This is a curved blade with the edge on the convex side.

Sheepsfoot – The spine of this blade curves downward to meet the edge. This leaves virtually no point. This type of blade typically has little or virtually no belly and is used mainly for slicing applications.

Spear Point – The point of this blade is exactly in the center of the blade and both edges are sharpened. The point drops all the way down the center of the blade.

Tanto – The point to this style blade is in line with the spine of the blade. This leaves the point thick and strong. There are quite a few different variations of how tanto blades are designed. The way the front edge meets the bottom edge, whether at an obtuse angle or a curve is one difference. You will also find differences in the point being clipped or not and whether there is a chisel grind.

Trailing Point – The trailing point blade's point is higher than the spine. This is typically engineered with an extended belly for slicing, with the point up and out of the way.

Locking Mechanisms & Types

Axis Lock- The features of the Axis lock are significant and greatly enhance the function of knives. First and foremost is the strength. This lock is definitely more than adequate for the demands of normal knife use. A close second to strength is the inherent Axis advantage of being totally ambidextrous without user compromise. The blade can be readily actuated open or closed with either hand- without ever having to place flesh in the blade path. Lastly, and certainly not any less impressive, is the indescribable "smoothness" with which the mechanism and blade function. By design there are no traditional "friction" parts to the Axis mechanism, making the action the much smoother. And it's all reasonably exposed so you can easily clean away any unwarranted debris. Basically, Axis gets its function from a spring-loaded bar that rides forward and back in a slot machined into both liners. The bar extends to both sides of the knife; spanning the space between the liners and is positioned over the rear of the blade. It engages a ramped notch cut into the tang portion of the knife blade when it is opened. Two omega style springs, one on each liner, give the locking bar its inertia to engage the knife tang, and as a result the tang is wedged solidly between a sizable stop pin and the Axis bar itself. It's a lot of words in an attempt to describe simplicity, but the very best way to truly appreciate the Axis lock is to experience it for yourself firsthand. There are several models to choose from with more on the way.

Balisong
- Also known as Butterfly Knives. The handle to this style knife is in two separate pieces and pinned to the tang. A third pin fixes between both sides to lock the blade into an open position.

Block Lock - This folder lock has a spring loaded block located on the center pin. The block extends into a hole in the tang to lock the blade open.

Clasp - This style folding knife has no lock or backspring.

Lockback - This style of lock has a spring-loaded locking bar with a tooth at the end. The tooth falls into the notch cut into the blade tang and is held there under the spring tension. A cut out in the handle spine houses the release for the lock. These locks generally require 2 hands to unlock and close.

Locking Liner - (a.k.a. linerlocks) This particular locking system was refined by knife maker Michael Walker. The actual locking mechanism is incorporated in the liner of the handle, hence the name. If there is a metal sheet inside the handle material, it is called a liner. With a locking liner, opening the blade will allow this metal to flex over and butt against the base of the blade inside the handle, locking it open. Moving this liner aside will release this lock allowing the blade to close. Disengagement of the lock is performed with the thumb, allowing for one handed, hassle free action. Locking liners are commonly found on tactical folding knives, both production and custom.

Ringlock - This design has been around since the 1890's. The Ringlock is similar to the Slipjoint, but it has a rotating slipring instead of a backspring.

Rolling Lock - This design uses a sort of bearing that rolls into the locked position.

Sebenza Lock - The concept of this lock is comparable to the Liner Lock. A hollowed out section of the scale is fixed into the handle cavity to lock the blade open.

Slipjoint - The slipjoint is one of the more common designs for folding and pocket knives. Instead of a lock, the slipjoint utilizes a backspring to create resistance to hold the blade open.

Swinglock - There is one pivot pin and one locking pin used to design this style lock.

Wood Lock - This lock was designed by Barry Wood. The handles and blade are attached to a central pin and pivot independently. A second pin is fixed into the inside of one scale and extends into slot in the tang to lock the blade open.

Blade Grinds

Hollow Grind
The most common grind, found on the majority of custom and production pieces. Hollow ground blades have a thin edge that continues upwards, and is the grind is produced on both sides of the blade. Since the cutting edge is relatively thin, there is very little drag when cutting. Examples of knives with hollow ground blades: Spyderco Howard Viele C42 and Kershaw Ti-ATS-34.

Flat Grind
Flat grinds are characterized by the tapering of the blade from the spine down to the cutting edge. This style of grind is also referred to as a "V" grind, since the cross section of this grind resembles that letter. The chisel grind, a popular style for tactical blades, is a variation of the flat grind. On a chisel round blade, it is ground on one side, and on the other it is not. These blades are easier to sharpen, because you sharpen one side only. Example of a knife with a chisel ground blade would be the Benchmade 970 Ernest Emerson CQC7. Examples of knives with a flat grind are the Benchmade Mel Pardue 850 and Spyderco's C36 Military model.

Concave Grind
Similar to the flat grind in that the blade tapers from the spine to the cutting edge, except the taper lines are arcs instead of straight lines.

Convex Grind
Similar to the flat grind in that the blade tapers from the spine to the cutting edge, except the taper lines are arcs extending outward instead of inward as in the concave grind above or straight lines. If you picture a pumpkin seed, you will get a good idea of what the cross sectional view of this grind is like. Noted custom knife maker Bill Moran is credited for bringing the convex grind into the focus of knife making.

Chisel
The chisel grind is ground on only one side of the blade. It's easy to produce and easy to sharpen. It is often ground at around 30 degrees which contributes to a thin and sharp edge.

Sabre
The sabre grind has flat edge bevels that typically begin about the middle part of the blade and runs flatly to the edge. The edge is often left thick and thickens quickly past the edge. This is a great grind for chopping and other hard uses.

Scandinavian Single-Bevel
the Scandinavian single-bevel grind looks similar to a sabre grind. The difference between the two grinds is that the Scandinavian single-bevel grind has no secondary edge bevels. This grind has an extremely thin and incredibly sharp edge.




All Comments are Welcome and Appreciated.



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Friday, October 22, 2010

Grading the Condition Of a Pocket Knife

In 1973, the National Knife Collectors Association developed a knife grading system that became the standard for many years. Over time, most dealers and collectors have enhanced the standard to provide more clarification and a more detailed grading system. Most knives are now graded as described in the table below.

Pristine Mint

This condition is perfect plus. Knives in this category must be flawless, and must have additional characteristics that set them apart from mint. They could have an unusually good fit for example.

Mint

This would be a knife that has never been carried, never sharpened, never used, and does not have rust problems of any kind. Some collectors will classify a very old knife that has a few rust marks as mint (especially those made prior to WWII). The newer the knife gets from there, the less rust specs it must have to maintain its mint status.

In addition, most Case knife collectors are a bit more strict on grading knives. An old Case knife with any rust mark would not be considered mint. Note: A knife that had rust, and was cleaned to look mint would be considered near mint or worse depending on how harshly it was cleaned.

Near Mint

There must be nothing wrong with a near mint knife. It should "walk and talk" and must have most of the original polish visible on the blades. Very light sharpening would be acceptable, but the blades must be full. It can have some light rust spots, but no deep rust pits. Some light carry scratches are permitted on the outside as well.

Excellent

Knives in this condition would constitute a solid, lightly used knives. There may be a bit of blade wear (no more than 10% on any one blade), and some tarnish and light pitting would be acceptable. Blades should still snap well, and the tang mark should still be clear.

Very Good

Knives in this category are generally fairly well used knives. There may be blade wear of up to 25%. The blades should still be sound, but one or more may be slow. The stamping should be readable, but may be faint. The handles may have cracks and wear, but shouldn't have major chipping. The knife might also have some rust pitting and tarnish.

Good

Knives in good condition must still be useable as a working knife. Blade wear may be between 25-50%. There might be chips in the handle or blade. Blades may be slow with deep pits and rust. You should still be able to make out the maker of the knife by shield or tang stamp.

Poor

A poor knife is generally only good for parts. The blades might be less than 50%, extra lazy or even broken. Tang marks are generally barely legible, and the handles may be chipped.

Junk

Anything less than poor. These knives would be pretty much worthless. May have a liner, back spring or bolster that would be salvageable for parts, but probably not even that.

What does new, used, vintage and antique knives mean?

New knives: Never sold to a customer and never used. New as shipped by the manufacturer or distributor with all original packing (box, sheath, etc.) and instructions. Knives or any merchandise sold as "New" must be eligible for full warranty service from the officially authorized importer, distributor, or factory in the USA. New is what most knife stores sell and they are generally current production knives.

Used knives: Any knife that has been owned by a customer, even if it is like new. Used knives may not have the sheath, accessories or box that they came with. They vary in condition, from like new to completely worn out. By this definition most knives are used, including vintage and antique.

Vintage knives: Knives made after World War II (1945), but not still in production. They are no longer made. A vintage knife will usually be higher in cost than when it was originally produced, but many times it will not cost any more than a similar made knife today if you can find one.

Antique knives or Old knives: Any knife made before World War II (1945).



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Monday, October 18, 2010

Knife Review Video of the Week - SOG Trident Folding Knife

This week's Knife Review Video of the Week is SOG TRIDENT KNIFE





SOG's mission was to create an updated SOG folding knife based on historical proven design but launched from a platform of new technology. Somehow, when you see it, you immediately know it is a SOG. When you use it, you definitely know it is a SOG. At a casual glance it has elements of our original SOG Bowie, Tomcat, SEAL Pup, Flash, etc. Upon a closer look, it has features never before put into a knife.

The SOG Trident uses the well-proven means of delivering a knife blade to the open position with S.A.T. (SOG Assisted Technology). Now using the patent pending Arc-Actuator™, the Trident locks stronger and releases easier. There is also a built-in safety to lock the blade closed. When it shows red, you are ready to go.

What also makes the Trident so unique is the patent pending Groove™ in the handle, which allows the operator to cut paracord, fishing line, etcetera without having to open the blade.
The Trident's blade is an evolution as well. Taking key elements from previous blade shapes created a distinct hybrid of form and function.

The Trident embodies the spirit of our elite special forces throughout the world. The only thing that it doesn't come with is testosterone...you have to supply that.

Specifications:

Blade: 3.75" x .125"
Overall Length: 8.5"
Weight: 4.5 oz
Steel: AUS8 Stainless Rc 57-58
Clip: Reversible SOG Bayonet Clip



I will be posting a video which I've chosen as the "Knife Review Video of the Week" every Monday.
If you have, or know of a knife review video which would be a good choice for "Knife Review Video of the Week" please send your requests to swordofodinknifeblog@gmail.com





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Friday, October 15, 2010

Kershaw Ken Onion Bump Knife Review


After a long wait, Kershaw Knives finally did it again. They released a high end Ken Onion designed model called the Bump. It's perhaps the sexiest looking piece I've seen come from this dynamic duo. There are curves all over this beauty! There is not one straight line on this piece, making for a visually exciting knife as well as comfortable to hold and use. The 3-D machining and anodizing gives the titanium handle a lot of vibrance as well as texture. One look at this piece and you can easily discern that this design came from the mind of Ken Onion.

The Bump's blade shape kind of defies definition. It is essentially a clip point with a bump in the profile of the belly, hence the moniker [I guess!]. Anyhow, it is 3.5 inches long, flat ground out of 1/8" S30V stock. Dual thumb studs are present though I don't see the point in having them on this knife as there is a flipper which aids in opening the blade fast and easy with the assistance of the Speed Safe mechanism. Out of the box the edge was laser sharp per Kershaw's usual work. Grinds are even, though on this particular sample the swedge grinds are off a bit. Though, this has no impact on performance and barely visible unless you look at it up close.

The handle is milled from 6AL/4V titanium and there is an integral lock cut out of one of the scales. Integral locks are stronger than your standard liner lock® and also make the knife thinner due to the lack of liners. The buyer has a choice of two handle colors - blue and green. Both come with gold highlights and the 3-D textured surface. While the texturing adds to the look, it also gives the user a nice grip as the surface isn't so slick. Though, the appearance of the blue or green handles maybe a bit too "festive" for some, I find them to be refreshing. This knife will clearly stand out in a sea of black and grey knives. A steel pocket clip is mounted at the pivot end to carry the Bump tip down in the pocket, and does so relatively low.

The lockup is excellent. No play in any direction and the blade snaps out instantly with the tug of the flipper when the blade is closed. Action is smooth. So far, the Bump has been a pleasure to carry. It also is a nice conversation starter too with its sexy curves and vibrant handle treatment. Performance wise, the S30V steel is the best you can get today and a big kudos goes out to Kershaw for opting to use this steel for the Bump. The large finger recess in the handle forms sort of an integral finger guard in which to protect your hand from sliding up on the blade.

The swells in the handle are in all the right places to fill your grip nicely. It feels as if the knife were molded to your hand. The blade geometry and shape facilitates easy cutting. The bump in the cutting edge allows for easy slicing when using a smooth, even, sawing motion. So, the blade's appearance does have function as well as aesthetics. No complaints at all in the blade department! I even had to do some work with the knife that required some work with the tip of the blade. The Bump handled this task well. I was able to choke up on the handle and blade effectively to provide the necessary control.

Kershaw has struck a gold mine when they paired up with Ken Onion. Chives. Leeks. Whirlwinds. Blurs. And now, Bumps. Another winner in this knife design tag-team. My recommendations would be to produced a "toned down" version for those who might think the blue or green anodizing to be a bit too flashy for their tastes. Also, the dual thumb studs could be done away with since the flipper offers quick and easy deployment with either hand - even for those not familiar with the Speed Safe assist opening mechanism. While Ken Onion's designs are certainly very pleasing to the eye, their appearances are not in any way overshadowed by performance, and Ken's knives are designed to perform as well as they look. And the Kershaw Bump is no exception to this. The Kershaw Ken Onion Bump Knife will add a high performance flash to any collection so get yours today!



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Friday, October 1, 2010

Bayonets History

"All nations boast of their prowess with the bayonet but few men really enjoy a hand-to-hand fight with the bayonet. English and French both talk much of the bayonet but in Egypt in 1801 they threw stones at each other when their ammunition was exhausted and one English sergeant was killed by a stone.

At Inkerman again the British threw stones at the Russians, not without effect; and I am told upon good authority that the Russians and Japanese, both of whom proffes to love the bayonet, threw stones at each other rather than close, even in this twentieth-century."



Antique Spanish hunt Plug Bayonet from 1700

The bayonet stems directly from the various forms of polearm, it was obviously inappropriate to have a firearm-bearing soldier encumbered by a pike, yet there was need for a polearm to stand off cavalry and for hand-to-hand encounters when ammunition was gone or when there was no time to reload.

The original "bayonnette" - the name came from the town of its supposed origin, Bayonne in France - was introduced into the French Army in 1647.

It was a plug bayonet, a spear-like blade to which was attached a long conical steel plug inserted directly into the muzzle of the soldier`s musket, a collar lodging against the barrel to prevent it sliding too far in. This had certain defects; the musket could not be fired once the bayonet was fitted, and during the act of fitting the soldier was virtually unarmed. Misfortune overtook an English army at Killiecrankie in 1689, when a sudden rush of Scottish Highlanders overwhelmed them as they were fixing bayonets.

As a result of these defects, the socket bayonet was developed; this had the blade cranked and attached to a hollow sleeve which slipped over the muzzle of the musket. The blade lay below the axis of the barrel and left sufficient clearance to permit the weapon to be loaded and fired while the bayonet was fixed.

Although generally considered as the infantryman`s assault weapon, the bayonet was originally a defensive instrument. Steady infantry standing two or three deep and adopting a "square" formation could defend their position against a sudden rush of cavalry; the combined length of the musket and bayonet was sufficient to permit a standing soldier to reach a man mounted upon a horse.


The 28th of Foot form a square at Waterloo to resist a French cavalry

The idea of using a short sword as a bayonet was tried from time to time but the first regular users of the sword-type blade appear to have been the British rifle regiments in the early 1800s. However, the advent of breech-loading, and then magazine arms provided infantry with a firepower capable of beating off cavalry, at which time the bayonet turned from being primarily defensive to being a personal offensive weapon. For this a knife-like blade was of more use than a spike blade, and so from the middle of the 19th century the knife or sword blade became common, though a few armies still retained spike blades.

The difficulties of fixing bayonets in the heat of the battle led some armies to adopt permanently-attached bayonets which folded above or below the barrel of the weapon and could be released and locked into place very quickly when required. A singularity of the Imperial Russian Army, which carried over into the Soviet Army, was the permanently fixed bayonet; no scabbards were issued, and the bayonet remained on the rifle muzzle at all times.

With the adoption of modern short assault rifles the utility of the bayonet as a weapon was placed in doubt; the combination is not well suited to bayonet fighting.



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Monday, September 20, 2010

Detecting Counterfeit Knives

Unfortunately, there are a few knuckle-heads out there who are eager to make a buck in the knife business by any means necessary. Some might attempt to steal our precious little gems, while others may try to defraud us by selling imitation knives.

Many counterfeit knives by modifying existing knives to imitate more valuable pieces. Most of these crooks prey on the beginner and novice collectors, but some counterfeiters are good at what they do and a can sometimes fool a veteran collector.

Reproduction or Counterfeiting is probably the largest problem with knife collecting. Rest assured however, that it is not that big of a problem. There are usually telling signs of an imitation that are obvious if you know what to look for. You can protect yourself by taking a few simple precautions.

Educate Yourself

The most important thing that you can do is educate yourself. Before you go off putting much money into knives read a lot about them, talk to other collectors, and ask lots of questions.

Closely examine what you are buying.

Check for the following:

  1. Make sure all parts match. Some counterfeits are made by taking pieces from two or more knives and turning them into one. Look to make sure all of the metal parts have similar age marks. If you find a knife with tarnished, old looking back springs with brand new looking blades for example, you know something is not right.
  2. Make sure the tang of the knife is the same width as the back springs. Counterfeiters will often take an old knife and grind away the existing stamp and re-stamp or etch on one of more value. This trick can usually be spotted by comparing the width of the tang with the back springs. If the tang has been ground, it will be thinner than the springs. Some counterfeiters will go the extra length to take the knife apart and grind down the springs to match. Most will not go to this extreme unless it is a very valuable piece. If this is the case, you can match the back spring width with a like pattern knife made by the same manufacturer around the same period.
  3. Make sure the pattern number and tang stamp match the knife you are looking at. If you find a knife with a pattern number that indicates that it has bone handles, but you notice that the knife is made with genuine stag, you should stay away from it. This goes along with educating yourself about knives. Learn about pattern numbers and tang stamps from books, this website, or by talking to other collectors.
  4. Make sure the person that you are buying from is reputable.
    Ask around. Make sure that the dealer is respected and has a sell-back guarantee. Any good dealer will allow you to return a knife if it is not what you thought it was. It is crucial to their reputation.

If there is any doubt in your mind, get a second opinion.

There is usually a knowledgeable well respected knife collector or dealer around when you are considering buying a knife. Ask someone you trust if there is anything that you are not certain about.


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Four Steps to Buying the Right Knife

1. How will you use it?

  • Everyday: Are you opening boxes or cutting twine?
  • Outdoor (Backpacking/Climbing/Hiking/Camping): Does your activity involve using rope?
  • Hunting/Fishing: Are you field dressing game or cleaning/filleting fish?
  • Tactical/Survival: Do you need a heavy-duty knife that won't fail?
  • Limited Edition/Custom: Are you a collector?

2. What features are important to you?

  • Fixed-blade: Always ready for use and dependable.
  • Folding knife: Compact, safer to carry; improved dependability with locking blade.
  • One-handed opening: Has a thumb stud, blade hole or other feature to facilitate one-hand use. Some models are one-hand opening and one-hand closing as well.
  • Gutting/skinning blade: For field dressing game.
  • Thick Blade: For heavy-duty tasks.
  • Light weight: Use of composite or other materials to minimize weight.
  • Saw edge: For cutting wood or bone.
  • Sharpness: Stays sharp and is easy to sharpen.

3. What is it made of and why?

Blade Materials
A good blade combines good edge retention, ease of re-sharpening and rust resistance.

  • S30V is the best blade steel available. It is a high vanadium stainless steel with even higher edge retention.
  • ATS-34 and BG-42 are two custom steels with much higher carbon content, giving them higher hardness ratings and dramatically higher edge retention.
  • 420HC is a stainless steel that provides excellent rust resistance, is easy to re-sharpen and has good edge retention.

Handle Materials
A good handle should feel solid and well constructed when you hold it. We suggest you consider a handle style and material that meets your needs and suits your preference.

  • An ergonomic design provides comfort.
  • A rubber or textured handle provides a sure grip in wet conditions.
  • A wooden handle adds beauty to the knife.
  • Plastic/composite handles are durable under extreme conditions.

4. Does it offer an unconditional lifetime warranty?

You want a knife that is crafted from high quality materials and will deliver reliable performance. If it should ever fail you, be sure the maker stands behind it. Buck Knives has been making knives for over 100 years and still backs all products with an unconditional lifetime warranty that is rock solid.





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Thursday, September 16, 2010

Blood Groove

What is a Blood Groove For?

This question comes up every 8 months or so. The blood groove on a knife probably is derived from the channel present on swords, where it is called a "fuller". There are some persistent myths floating around about the function of blood grooves, from "releases the vacuum when the knife is thrust into a person" to "no functional use, purely decorative". Let's talk about these wrong answers first, before we talk about the right answers.

Wrong Answer #1: Releasing the Body Suction

Basically, this theory postulates that the blood groove is present to facilitate withdrawing the knife from a person/animal. In this scenario, it is said that the animal's muscles contract around the knife blade, and that this causes a vacuum, which makes the knife difficult to withdraw. But on a knife with a blood groove, blood runs through the blood groove and breaks the suction, so the knife can be withdrawn with less difficulty.

One problem is that there's no evidence that this suction ever really happens. Also, over and over again people report that there is no difference whatsoever in the difficulty of withdrawing a knife with a blood groove vs. one without. This is one theory that has been tested and found wanting.

Yes, I realize you may have heard this myth from your deadly knife instructor, or read it in a book somewhere. But the experts agree that it is false. If your knife can cut its way in, it can just as easily cut its way out, with or without a blood groove.

And with that, I am going to change terminology from "blood groove" to "fuller", since we all now know the so-called "blood groove" is not playing a blood-channeling function.

Wrong Answer #2: Purely Decorative

There is a grain of truth to this one. Although a fuller does play a functional role, on a short knife the effect might be so small as to be insignificant. Many believe the fuller plays a strictly decorative role on knives or swords under 2 feet long. As the knife or sword gets bigger, the fuller plays an increasingly important role. On smaller knives, it is indeed probably just decorative.

Right Answers:

Okay, so what substantive role does the blood groove/fuller play? The bottom line is, it does two things:

1. It stiffens the blade
2. It lightens the blade

That first statement has been the subject of some controversy, with some people sending me equations purporting to show that the removal of material cannot make the blade stiffer. I will table for now the question of "does the blade get stiffer, in some absolute sense, due to the fuller?" Rather, I'll weaken the claim to say that the blade *feels* stiffer to the user who is waving it around -- because it's stiffer for its weight.

I'll reproduce a post by Jim Hrisoulas which lays things out clearly (reprinted with permission):

When you fuller a blade you do several things:

1: You lighten it by using less material, as the act of forging in the fuller actually widens the blade, so you use less material than you would if you forged an unfullered blade. (In stock removal the blade would also be lighter, as you would be removing the material instead of leaving it there).

2: You stiffen the blade. In an unfullered blade, you only have a "single" center spine. This is especially true in terms of the flattened diamond cross section common to most unfullered double- edged blades. This cross section would be rather "whippy" on a blade that is close to three feet long. Fullering produces two "spines" on the blade, one on each side of the fuller where the edge bevels come in contact with the fuller. This stiffens the blade, and the difference between a non-fullered blade and a fullered one is quite remarkable.

Fullers on knives do the same thing, although on a smaller blade the effects are not as easily seen or felt. Actually looking at fullers from an engineering point of view they really are a sophisticated forging technique, and it was the fullered swordblade that pointed the way to modern "I" beam construction.

When combined with proper distal tapers, proper heat treating and tempering, a fullered blade will, without a doubt, be anywhere from 20% to 35% lighter than a non-fullered blade without any sacrifice of strength or blade integrity.

Fullers were not "blood grooves" or there to "break the suction" or for some other grisly purpose. They served a very important structural function. That's all. I have spent the last 27 years studying this and I can prove it beyond any doubt...


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Monday, September 6, 2010

Plain vs. Serrated Blades

Introduction

There's been a jump in recent years in the popularity of serrated edges, and there's often confusion as to when a serrated edge is advantageous, versus when a plain edge is advantageous.

For our discussion, we'll need to talk about what we're doing with the knife. Think about what you can do with a knife: you can shave, slice, slash, saw, hack, chop, etc. For our purposes, we'll divide all knife uses into two very broad categories:

Push cuts: The main cutting is done by pushing the edge through the thing-to-be-cut. For example, when you shave, you push the edge of the knife through your beard. When peeling an apple, you push the edge under the skin of the apple. When chopping wood, you try to push the edge into and through the wood.

Slicing cuts: The cutting action is substantially done by dragging the edge across the thing-to-be-cut. When you slice meat or a tomato, you drag the edge across the tomato as you cut through it. Slicing and sawing are examples of slicing cuts.

Plain vs. Serrated: The Conventional View

In general, the plain edge is better than the serrated when the application involves push cuts. Also, the plain edge is superior when extreme control, accuracy, and clean cuts are necessary, regardless of whether or not the job is push cuts or slices.

In general, the serrated edge will work better than the plain edge for slicing cuts, especially through hard or tough surfaces, where the serrations tend to grab and cut the surface easily. Some of the cutting power of the serrated edge is due to its format alone; thus, even a dull serrated edge knife will often perform competently at slicing jobs. The serrated edge gets its slicing ability from a number of factors. The high points on the serrations will touch the material first, and this gives those points higher pressure per area than if the same pressure was applied to a plain blade; this allows the serration to puncture more easily. In addition, serrations are normally chisel-ground into the blade, which means they are thinner (and thus cut better) than the comparable plain blade.

The plain edge will work better for applications like shaving, skinning an apple, skinning a deer. All those applications involve either mostly push cuts, or the need for extreme control. Serrations work really well on things like tough rope or wood, where the serrations bite through quickly.

Generally, the more push cuts are used, the more necessary it is for the plain edge to have a "razor polished" edge. A knife edge becomes more polished when you move to higher and higher grit stones. Generally, 1200-grit is considered polished; a 6000+ grit Japanese water stone would polish the edge further.

One interesting case is cutting a tomato. In theory, you can just push a blade through a tomato, so a razor polished plain edge would work fine. However, the tomato is soft, and unless your plain edge knife is very sharp, the tomato will simply squish when you start pushing. You can (and many people do) use a slicing motion with your plain blade, but if it's even a little dull it won't cut well and it may not even break the skin. Use a sawing motion with a serrated knife (even a dull one), and your tomato will slice fine.

You will read about test after test where the above view is confirmed. That is, the plain edge excels in push cuts, and the serrated excels in slicing cuts. This confirms the conventional view ... to an extent.

Plain vs. Serrated Re-thought

Since actual tests confirm the truth of the conventional view, what more is there to be said? The problem is that the tests are often not as thorough as they need to be. That is, when testing plain vs. serrated performance, most tests are comparing a plain polished edge to a serrated edge. Given that, it is no surprise that the serrated blade easily outperforms the plain blade when cutting (for example) rope.

A polished edge is not the only choice with a plain blade. One can get the plain edge to perform much differently when sharpened with coarser stone. People who cut rope often use a plain edge sharpened on a file, to get an incredibly coarse, "micro-serrated" edge that performs wonderfully at slicing jobs. So the knife testers are testing with polished plain edges, whereas people experienced with cutting rope use coarsely-ground plain edges.

Whether or not serrated blades will out-slice coarse-ground plain blades seems to depend on the medium being cut. Harder materials (or materials under tension) do well for serrated blades. With softer materials, the serrations will sometimes catch and unwind the material rather than cut -- in this case, coarse-ground plain blades may easily out-slice serrated blades.

So the claim that serrated edges work better than plain edges for slicing needs to be re-examined. It appears that as materials get harder or put under more tension, the serrated edge may slice a bit better than a coarse-ground plain edge. As the material gets softer and looser, the coarse-ground plain edge may slice a bit better. And as we go towards push cuts, the polished plain edge comes into its own. The user may want to experiment on those materials that he often cuts, before choosing the edge format.

In addition, keep in mind that the coarse plain edge is much easier to sharpen than the serrated edge. Just grab your file or extra coarse stone, take a few swipes, and you're ready to go. With the serrated blade, you'll need to find a sharpening rig with the special serrated blade sharpener. Balancing this is the fact that serrated blades need to be sharpened less often.

What Should I Carry?

Should you carry a serrated blade or plain blade for everyday utility carry? Unless you *know* that the majority of work you'll be doing heavily favors slicing or pushing (e.g., "I spend all my time whittling"), it may not matter much. My experience has been that general utility work is usually general enough that either format works just fine, though these days I tend to lean towards plain blades. Also keep in mind that by changing your sharpening strategy on the plain edge, you can significantly change its characteristics. If you do a lot of push cutting, you want to go with a razor polished plain edge. If you do a lot of slicing, you'll need to decide between a coarse-ground plain edge and a serrated edge. I don't mind sharpening, so I lean towards plain blades, strategically sharpened to the right grit (polished or coarse) for the jobs I happen do be doing.

Occasionally, people mention that the serrated edge looks intimidating to the masses. This could be good if you're using this knife primarily for self defense and want an intimidation factor. Or it could be bad, if you're carrying for utility work and don't want to scare people (especially the nice officer who pulled you over for speeding and asks to look at the knife in your sheath). Rumor has it that airport guards are particularly strict about serrated edges. Other than at airports, I don't think the menacing appearance of the serrated edge is important enough either way to affect what I carry.

Thoughts On The Partially-Serrated Blade

Another option is the combination plain/serrated edge. This format appears to have overtaken the all-serrated format. Typically, the 50%-60% of the blade nearest the tip is plain, while the back 40%-50% is serrated. There are mixed feelings on this format. Many people swear by this format, and feel that it is a good compromise, giving the user the choice of precise push cuts from the plain edge, and the advantage of the serrated edge for tougher materials. However, keep in mind that on a 3.25" blade, there's maybe 1.25" of serrations. The detractors of this format feel that 1.25" is too short a length for the serrations to be really be useful, and the length of the plain edge is being sacrificed for no good gain.

My own philosophy on partially-serrated blades at the moment is that since I have both edge formats in one knife, I try to let each one shine in their respective areas. So I'm razor polishing the plain edge part, often on a 1200 grit diamond stone or even 6000 grit Japanese water stone, and then stropping it. The plain edge is scary sharp for push cuts, and I use the serrations when I need to cut through hard or fibrous material.

Partially-serrated blades are often serrated at the "wrong" place. For example, for camp use, I might want the belly serrated for cutting my steak, and the part near the handle razor-polished for whittling and control-type usage. However, 99.9% of partially-serrated blades are ground exactly the opposite: the ripping inaccurate serrations are at the control part of the blade, and the plain part is out at the slicing part.

In theory, one can use a plain blade to get similar performance to a partially-serrated blade. Just razor polish the plain blade, and then rough up one part of the edge on a file, to get a knife that will excel at push cuts at one point of the blade, and excel at slicing cuts at another.



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Sunday, August 29, 2010

Butterfly Knives History

The term "Bali-Song," with the hyphen, is a registered trademark of Benchmade Corporation and was previously used by Pacific Cutlery and originally by Bali-Song Cutlery before that. But the word "balisong," without the hyphen, is a generic word.

There are a lot of myths and rumors that surface and resurface with various explanations for the meaning and origin of the word "Balisong," but one thing is agreed: it originated from the Philippines.

In the contemporary language of Tagalog, the most common of many languages spoken in the Philippines, "balisong" means "a folding knife with two handles that counter-rotate around the tang."

Here in the United States, as well as in other English-Speaking countries, the term "butterfly knife" is used to describe such a knife. But where does the word "balisong" come from and what does it mean?

A written theory from authors Tom Wei Ding and Tom Wei Toi claim in the book they wrote in 1983, The Manipulation Manual for the Balisong Knife, that balisong means "sharp knife." On the other hand, an author, Jeff Imada, who published the 1984 book, The Balisong Manual, theorizes that "bali" means "break" and "sung" means "horn," and that the handles of the balisongs (originally called "balisungs"), were made from broken animal horns.

This theory was coraborated by Tai Jo in his 1985 book, Balisong Knife, where he explains his theory that the word "balisong" can be translated in variables as either "broken horn" (referencing the use of horn as a handle material), "breaking/rattling horn" (referencing the "clicking" sound that balisong knives make when manipulated), or "to break the horn" (referencing the use of a closed balisong as an impact weapon). Other sources have reported that "balisong" is a proper name and has no meaning at all.

Recently another knife maker who grew up in the Philippines, was trained in the knife making business in the Philippines, plus studied the origins of these unique knives, explained that there is a commonality in the Philippines as within The United States of America, of the country being broken down into states and cities. The nation of the Philippines have provinces (like States) called "Batangas." In Batangas there are Barrios (like cities). One of these Barrios is called "Balisong."

This city is famous for making knives much like the city of Sheffield in England, and Soligen in Germany are famous for knifemaking. Or like the American city of Detroit, Michigan is famous for making automobiles.

This Filipino-American claims that "Balisong" is just the name of this city and has since come to be synonymous with the butterfly knifes made there. Incidently, the city of Balisong is still a thriving city and making butterfly knives is still a prominent industry there. The city even has a semi-professional basketball team named "The Batangas Blades."



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Thursday, August 26, 2010

Knife Laws

Is A Particular Knife Legal in My State?

The following copyrighted article has been provided with permission of the American Knife and Tool Institute. This is an important association to the knife community. Please check out akti.org and join!

Background

The ability to produce and use tools is what has enabled humans to rise from a very primitive existence and adapt to almost every climate or situation existing on this earth. Granted, we have superior intellectual and reasoning ability. Wit alone, however, did not enable our long-ago ancestors to overcome the lack of fangs, claws, horns, antlers, size, speed, and/or strength possessed by other members of the animal kingdom whom they either preyed upon or competed with for food. Intelligence enabled them to fashion stones, bones, and other material into increasingly efficient tools. Knives, in the nascent form of naturally occurring sharp-edged stones, were undoubtedly among the first tools they ever used. We should consider that without these tools, the dietary and wardrobe options available to our ancestors would have been quite limited. Our "lifestyle" of today is built on this foundation.

Knives are indeed tools. Occasionally, knives are employed as weapons, both defensively and offensively. Unfortunately, knives are also occasionally used to commit crimes. It is the potential that knives can be used criminally and perhaps a misperception as to the frequency of criminal use that has given rise to laws regulating knives in essentially every state.

Our Federal government became involved in firearms regulation in the early part of this century and continues to assume an increasing level of control as to firearms. Given the relatively long period of Federal involvement, the doctrine of Federal preemption, and the fact that firearms laws are for the most part based on purely objective factors, such as barrel length or action type, there is a greater degree of consistency among the laws of the various states as to firearms.

Such is not the case with knives. Laws regarding knives are a hodgepodge of legislative action, some of which dates back to the 1800's.

A handgun "legal" in a given state would in all probability be "legal" in the vast majority of states. The law regarding what a person may or may not do with a legal handgun for example would vary considerably from state to state. The situation is slightly more complex in the case of knives. What constitutes a legal knife varies greatly from state to state and may depend upon objective standards, such as blade length, or more subjective standards, such as the shape or style of the blade or handle. As is the case with firearms, the law of the different states regarding what one may do with a legal knife varies.

The Consequences

Criminal prosecutions based exclusively on the simple possession of an "illegal" knife are rare. At least the cases that become reported seem to involve coalescent criminal activity. As a practical matter, the constitutional prohibition against unreasonable searches and seizures protects the otherwise law-abiding citizen who happens to be walking down the street with a pocketknife having a blade one-eighth of an inch over the limit.

This may give rise to a false sense of security based upon the "it can't happen to me ...I'm not a criminal" mentality.

There is also a perception that a violation is generally considered to be a "weapon" violation, which can lead to all sorts of disqualifications, ranging from acquiring or owning firearms to military service, as well as public and/or private sector employment. As an example, in Pennsylvania, it is a misdemeanor to possess a knife or cutting instrument on school property. There is also a law in Pennsylvania which disqualifies persons convicted of any firearms. Persons convicted of any of the listed crimes who own or possess firearms must sell or transfer any and all firearms in his or her possession within a period of sixty (60) days. The list of crimes runs the gamut from murder, rape, kidnapping, arson, robbery that also includes the misdemeanor of possessing a weapon, meaning any knife, on school property. Pennsylvania is not unique in this regard. Similar legislation exists in many other states.

Attend a PTA meeting or a high school football game with a small folding knife in your pocket or handbag, or even a tiny knife on your key chain, and you are subject to the same legal disqualifications meted out to murderers and rapists. If there is even a small knife in your pocket or car when you drive your child to school, or perhaps exercise your right to vote (many jurisdictions' plots are located in school buildings), various rights which you may have thought to be "inalienable" may be in jeopardy.

By the way, if you read the entire text of the Pennsylvania law regarding weapons on school property, it merely advises that a breach of the law is a misdemeanor and makes no mention of the other law listed somewhere else which sets forth these additional and somewhat harsh disqualifications. It should also be observed that in many instances, several different laws of any given state that might apply to the possession of a knife were enacted decades apart. This would have happened quite likely without a full appreciation by the legislators or their constituents (like American Knife and Tool Institute, aka AKTI) as to the implications. Remember that adage about making laws and making sausages are two activities that should not be observed by the consumers or the electorate.

Finding The Law

Knife laws vary from state to state, as discussed above. Laws are also changed or amended from time to time. This often occurs in a "knee-jerk" reaction to some problem or event. Also, courts, in the form of opinions addressing a given case or dispute, interpret these laws. Each "interpretation" introduces another change or perhaps refinement to the law. Accordingly, it would be an ongoing task to maintain an up-to-date reference of all American jurisdictions as specifically related to knives.

The individual interested in learning about the laws involving or pertaining to knives in a given state, or perhaps more importantly, in avoiding difficulty with the laws, should turn to the state statutes or legislative enactments, and in particular, those dealing with crimes. You may find that for a given state this would be described or referred to as the Penal Code or Crimes Code. Within this Code, you will likely find laws regarding knives under any of the following headings:

Prohibited Weapons - Typically there will be a statute defining listing various weapons which are prohibited. As to knives, there may be specific size/blade length limitations. Often times there will be prohibitions against "dirks or daggers." Switch-blades or other knives, the blade of which is exposed by gravity or mechanical action, are frequently prohibited.

Possessing Instruments of Crime - This type of law deals with the possession of an instrument not otherwise illegal but possessed under circumstances indicating intent to employ the instrument for criminal purposes. For example, a 12-inch butcher knife would be commonplace and unquestionably legal in a butcher shop or meat packing plant, but might be questionable in the proverbial dark alley at 3:00 o'clock a.m. This type of law is sometimes found under the heading of "inchoate crimes."

Possession of a weapon in a prohibited area - In most states, it is a crime to possess a knife on school grounds. In some instances, exceptions are made for small pocketknives. It is also a crime in many states to possess a weapon to include a knife in a court facility or some other government buildings.

Transactions B - In many states, it is a crime to engage in certain transactions regarding knives and other prohibited weapons or to furnish such items to children or persons known to be incompetent or intemperate.

Many state statutes can be found on the Internet. Two good sites are FindLaw.com - Click on "US Law: Cases & Codes" to find statutes and cases (if any) for your state. And, State Knife Laws. State laws can also be researched on the Internet. Check out the AKTI web site Legislative section, click on your state for a link to its web site.

If you are conducting your research outside of "cyberspace," meaning real books, you should note that there are typically supplements published in paperback format or as "pocket parts" inserted in the rear cover of the hardbound book which contain the current law. Once you locate an applicable code section, be sure to check the "pocket part" for the same section to be sure the law has not changed.

There are also some cities/municipalities that have their own ordinances pertaining to knives. The best place to obtain such information is to contact your local police department and inquire if there are any applicable ordinances regarding the use, possession, carrying, or sale of knives.

Understanding the Law

We are all presumed to know the law. Generally, ignorance of the law is not a defense or excuse, notwithstanding the fact that lawyers and judges spend an enormous amount of time arguing about what a particular law means or what the legislature intended.

Typically, in your research of statutory or enacted law, you will find annotations or cross-reference to cases where a particular law or section of the law applied to the circumstances of an actual case. These case opinions or decisional law will contain a narrative by a judge, or perhaps a panel of appellate-level judges, describing in some summary fashion the facts which gave rise to the prosecution; the dispute about how the law should be applied and the decision. These resources will be helpful in developing an understanding as to the laws of a particular state and should be read together with the statutory law.

Some states have case law on line and others do not, in which case you will have to visit a law library and ask the librarian for assistance. Once you have located your state's case law "reporters" (books), look in the index (the last few volumes of the reporter) under "knives" or similar terms. In reading the statutes or written laws from a state on weapons or knives, it is helpful to keep in mind certain legal principles regarding interpretation and the application of law:

Ejusdim generis - Latin for "the same kind." It is common technique in writing laws to specifically list various prohibited items followed by a general inclusive term. For instance, you may find a statute which prohibits "any dagger, dirk, switch-blade, gravity knife, cutting instrument the blade of which is exposed in an automatic way by switch, push-button, spring mechanism, or other such implement". Under the rule of ejusdem generis, "other such implement" could not legitimately be read to include for instance a drop point fixed blade hunting knife. In other words, the drop point fixed blade hunting knife is not of the same kind or class as the specifically listed items such as the dagger, dirk, switch-blade, etc. However, you must be careful. In construing a New York statute prohibiting the possession of a dagger, dirk, dangerous knife, razor, stiletto or any other dangerous weapon, an ice pick was found to be a "dangerous weapon" under the principle of ejusdem generis.

Burden of Proof - Generally, the prosecution must establish and prove every element of the offense. In researching knife laws, you may find an example, as follows:

"Knife means any dagger, dirk, knife, or stiletto with a blade over three and one-half inches in length, or any other dangerous instrument capable of inflicting cutting, stabbing, or tearing wounds, but does not include a hunting or fishing knife carried for sports use. The issue that a knife is a hunting or fishing knife must be raised as must be raised as an affirmative defense." California Revised Statutes, 18-12-101. In the above example, a hunting knife with a four and one-half inch blade would be prohibited, but not if it was carried for hunting or fishing use. In this example, the prosecution does not need to prove that a given knife was not being carried for hunting or fishing use. The portion which is in italics describes a condition, which if proved by the defendant, would be an exception to the prohibition. Another typical burden of proof example is the "curio" exception, which is found in connection with many statutes prohibiting the possession of switch-blades. If you live in a state where such a law obtains, the prosecution would establish its case by approving a mere possession of a switch-blade. It is then incumbent upon the defendant or "actor" to prove its curio status. Exactly what constitutes a curio is somewhat subjective. A switch-blade in a glass case on a bookshelf in your home is likely to be a curio. However, if it is in your pocket, its "curio" status becomes much more questionable.

In pari matera - Latin for upon the same subject matter. Essentially, this principle requires that statutes on the same topic be construed together. If you find several statutes on the topic of knives, these should be read and considered together. The prohibition against any knife on school property, as mentioned above, is an example where a knife clearly permitted under a general statute becomes illegal under specific circumstances.

Federal

The Federal government has cognizance over matters involving commerce among the states, Federal property and federally-regulated activities, such as aviation. This does not mean that if you drive from New York to California, Federal law governs the legality of a knife you may be carrying or your use of it along the way. The law of the individual states would prevail, although in many instances, there are exceptions for persons engaged in travel.

The Federal Crimes Code is set forth at Title 18 of the U.S. Code, and in particular, 18 U.S.C. '930. There you will find provisions of dealing with dangerous weapons on Federal facilities, as well as definition of what constitutes a dangerous weapon. Interestingly, there is an exception for a pocketknife with a blade of less than two and one-half inches in length. However, you must also observe that there is a difference between a Federal facility where a small pocketknife would be tolerated and a Federal Court facility, where there is a policy of "zero tolerance" regarding tools such as knives.

Federal law also provides for a "civil penalty" for carrying a weapon on an aircraft. This "penalty" may not be more than $10,000 for each violation. See 49 U.S.C. '46303. A similar prohibition occurs in related Federal Aviation Administration Regulations regarding airport security. In theory, the "dangerous weapon" definition from the Federal Crimes Code should apply, and a pocketknife with a blade of less than two and one-half inches would be acceptable or permissible. Remember, however, if you are engaged in air travel, you are not at all unlikely to find yourself in another state, which as pointed out above, may have a different standard as to what is a legal knife.

Helpful Hints

The Label - What a particular knife is called by its maker or manufacturer "may be used against you." For instance, a knife labeled and sold as a "fighting knife" or a "tactical knife" is quite likely to be presented as such by the prosecution to a Court or a jury.

A comparison can be drawn to the label of assault rifle that was applied by manufacturers to various semi-automatic rifles which were military-like in appearance, but otherwise functionally indistinguishable from semi-automatic sporting rifles in use since before the II World War.

Consider the fact that a knife labeled by its maker as a camping utility survival or hunting knife might be more acceptable in the eyes of the law than essentially the same instrument labeled as a "fighting" knife. If the packaging, care and usage instructions or warranty information that is provided with a new knife touts its sporting purpose, you may wish to retain that material.

Gimmicks/Disguised Knives - Blades which are disguised as a cane, ballpoint pen, tire pressure gauge, belt buckle or other such innocuous objects are types of tools which should be evaluated very carefully. These items may suggest an intent on the part of the person possessing the item to deceive others.

Concealment - Laws prohibiting the carrying of "concealed" weapons were developed during times when weapons were routinely and openly carried by a majority of the population. In those times, a person with a concealed weapon was a preference that people carrying weapons do so discreetly. Many state statutes that establish licenses for carrying firearms require concealed carry. While you should read and abide by the law of a particular state, if there is any uncertainty, consider the circumstances and the activity that you might be engaged in. For instance, it is generally expected that someone engaged in hunting or fishing will have a knife. The same holds true perhaps to a slightly lesser extent, for other activities, such as camping, hiking, farming, etc. There is probably no real purpose to be served by a hunter concealing his skinning knife.

Length - When applying a law that specifies a length, assume the worst possible scenario. Include the choil or the unsharpened portion at the base of the blade when measuring. The prosecution will almost certainly do so. Similarly, be extremely careful about any knives that utilize stored energy, such as a compressed spring, to expose or move the blade, even if it's only a spring assist.

Set a good example - If you must use your knife for some appropriate task in the view of others, do so without flourish and in a non-threatening manner. Avoid giving somebody any reason to complain or be anxious about the fact that you have a knife.

Attitude - If you should find yourself detained by a police officer and your knife becomes an issue, it may be good to remember the adage that "Penitence is an avenue to grace." By all means, avoid appearing to be combative or threatening.

Further Assistance

Your own research efforts may very well satisfy your inquiry or curiosity as to the law of the state where you live, or perhaps the state or states where you intend to travel. You should seek advice from a lawyer if you have any question or if, for instance, your knife or possession of a knife would appear to be in any way questionable.

These guidelines have been prepared by Daniel C. Lawson, of the law firm of Meyer, Darragh, Buckler, Bebened & Eck, P.L.L.C. These guidelines are not a substitute for appropriate legal advice and are not intended to express an opinion as to the legality of any particular type or style of knife or the application of any Federal or state law regarding knives or other weapons.

The American Knife and Tool Institute would like to thank Dan Lawson for his generous time developing this guide and to everyone who has reviewed it.



All Comments are Welcome and Appreciated.


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